Which cosmetics cause sensitivity to the sun?

Take care of your skin and ensure proper skincare, addressing any problems as soon as they arise. But did you know that some ingredients in cosmetics can interact with the sun and cause photosensitivity?

Photosensitivity is essentially the skin’s reaction when exposed to sunlight. It can be allergic or toxic, which means it may appear several days after sun exposure or within a few hours, respectively.

This reaction is characterized by unusual inflammation or redness of the skin, often resembling a sunburn. Frequently, this reaction is caused by topical products applied to the skin that react with sunlight.

However, “this does not mean that the cosmetics you use are of poor quality or unsuitable for use,” clarifies Dr. Markos Michelakis, Dermatologist-Venereologist at EDOEAP. “These cosmetics can do wonders for the skin, but they must be used carefully to avoid unexpected reactions. For example, they may need to be applied exclusively at night before sleeping, or sun exposure should be avoided for a few days after use.”

Mr. Michelakis explains which ingredients in topical cosmetics could cause photosensitivity and therefore should be avoided before sun exposure.

1. Retinol. Also known as vitamin A, retinol is one of the most widely used active ingredients in cosmetics. It is known for its anti-aging properties and its contribution to skin renewal. Retinol targets fine and deep wrinkles as well as enlarged pores. When used correctly, it stimulates skin renewal and collagen production, improving texture and tone. “The problem regarding the sun is that retinol encourages the production of new skin cells. The new skin layer is very sensitive to sunlight,” explains Mr. Michelakis. “For this reason, retinol products are best applied at night before bed.” If used continuously, it is essential to apply sunscreen thoroughly every time you go outdoors, reapplying at least every 2 hours.
2. Hydroquinone. Hydroquinone is used to treat skin discoloration, as it “lightens” the skin. Products containing it reduce melanin production (melanin is the body’s natural pigment) in areas of hyperpigmentation (dark spots). However, this reduction leaves the skin locally more vulnerable to the effects of UV radiation. Therefore, if you are using hydroquinone, avoid sun exposure on the treated area.
3. Citrus oils. Essential oils from oranges, lemons, limes, grapefruit, etc., are aromatic active ingredients that can refresh and improve the appearance of the skin. However, they contain certain substances that interact with the sun and can cause a phototoxic reaction, manifested as redness, burns, or pigmentation. Therefore, avoid creams, serums, or other products containing citrus oils before sun exposure.
4. Exfoliating agents. Many substances are used for skin exfoliation, including glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, salicylic acid, and azelaic acid. These acids remove dead cells, hydrate the skin, and make it look cleaner and more youthful. Some may also reduce acne marks. However, by removing surface cells, they expose new underlying cells, which are particularly sensitive to UV exposure and can trigger photosensitivity. Exfoliate with the recommended frequency (no more than 1–2 times per week in summer), preferably in the afternoon to allow many hours (over 12) before sun exposure, and always apply plenty of high-SPF sunscreen.
5. Antibacterial agents. Topical treatments containing clindamycin or benzoyl peroxide are not cosmetics but medical treatments commonly used for acne. However, their ingredients can cause dryness, making the skin more vulnerable to UV effects. It is preferable to avoid these products a few hours before sun exposure to prevent photosensitivity, which can manifest as hyperpigmentation.

“These ingredients provide many benefits to the skin, and there is no reason to remove them from your regular routine. However, it is important to be mindful of when you use them and to take intensive sun protection measures to avoid potential risks from their interaction with UV,” concludes Mr. Michelakis.